Big Bend: Self Reliance, Grandeur, and a Reason to Return

Big Bend, Texas, is home to both Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park—a combined 1.1 million acres of wild lands along and above the Rio Grande. Those lands are rich in scenic views, diverse habitats and fascinating wildlife, adventure, and heritage.
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Casey A.

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If you were to place a map of Texas over a map of Europe, it would stretch from central France to the heart of the Czech Republic, from Florence well into the North Sea. So exploring Big Bend, Texas, will be no small undertaking. And it will absolutely be worth the many, many kilometers you’ll cover as you explore far west Texas.

Big Bend is home to both Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park—a combined 1.1 million acres of wild and breathtaking lands along and above the Rio Grande. Those lands are rich in scenic views, diverse habitats and fascinating wildlife, adventure, and heritage—Texan, Mexican, and Indigenous. We’ll only scrape the dusty surface here; you’ll have to visit to see for yourself … and probably on more than one visit.

This story was created in partnership with Visit Big Bend.

El Paso to Big Bend

El Paso, Texas, is the nearest major hub, and it’s a great place to get your bearings, rent a car, and pick up any last-minute supplies, such as extra water jugs, sunscreen, and layers to make your desert explorations safe and exciting. Put your Leave No Trace skills to use before leaving the city by planning ahead and preparing for the mighty west Texan landscapes of Big Bend.

Texas is a great location to visit in the winter and spring months, when temperatures don’t reach quite as high and wildlife sightings are more likely (bats, anyone?). Nevertheless, the desert gets hot during the days, cold and night, and the dry heat can sneak up on you. Pair that with inconsistent cell service, and Big Bend is the ideal destination to practice self reliance, savor solitude, and gain some perspective in the midst of grandeur.

When you’re ready to make your way to Big Bend, point the car toward Alpine—the service and cultural hub for Big Bend about three hours from El Paso. Be sure you have an appropriate vehicle for rough roads, lots of water, food, fuel, and sunscreen to maximize your adventure the next day; then settle in with with a belly full of authentic Mexican food and some excited butterflies.

Head into Big Bend’s Parks

Vermillion flycatcher in Big Bend Texas

Greet the morning sun, saddle up, and hit the trail. From Alpine, you’ll have an approximately 2.5-hour drive to Big Bend Ranch State Park. En route, stop in Marfa, a ranch town turned arts community. This stop is your chance to step into Texas mythology and Texan-Mexican culture that predates the United States. Don’t miss the large, iconic installations ranging from the “Prada” storefront to Andy Warhol and Andy Judd artwork.

Smaller but less developed than its neighboring national park, Big Bend Ranch State Park is aTexas treasure for spotting unique wildlife like vermilion flycatchers, scaled quail, bats, reptiles, and monarch butterflies. Formerly a ranch, this park is rich in evidence of human history as well as wildlife, stretching from mortars and pictographs of Indigenous peoples to aging fences and corrals of sheepherders and cattle ranchers. Explore the dirt roads and myriad trails with a sharp eye, binoculars, and a sense of curiosity.

While you can camp in the state park or rent a rustic bunkhouse, we recommend making your night at the Lajitas Golf Course for some luxury between parks. Lajitas is about a two-hour drive from the park but well worth it to end your day with a farm-to-table meal, an elevated cocktail, and the option for a spa session in the morning.

Treat Yourself in a Big Bend Way

Horseback rider in Big Bend Ranch State Park in Texas

Whether it’s a round of golf, a sleep-in, or a massage, enjoy a leisurely morning. Then truly saddle up: embark a guided trail ride with Lajitas Stables. Exploring the desert terrain with a knowledgeable wrangler and the sounds of hoofbeats in the sand will put you in a Big Bend mood.

Big Bend National Park

Cliffs of the Rio Grand stretch high in Big Bend National Park in Texas

Top off your gas tank and water bottles, and start the day on route to the Santa Elena Canyon Trail in Big Bend National Park. Views of 450-meter limestone cliff walls, which you can experience on a hike or a paddle, invite you into the sheer magnitude of Big Bend. Look closely at those walls to find fossils embedded in what was once a sea floor. Getting up-close and personal with the Rio Grand and the canyon it has carved into the Texan desert will give you real perspective on persistence.

After your Santa Elena Canyon adventure of choice, you have two options for your rest: Terlingua or the Chisos Mountain Lodge. In Terlingua, you can stock up on tacos and ghost-town lore to match your glamping experience under the stars. Alternatively, you can cruise down the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to Chisos Mountain Lodge. Take your time and take in views of the surprisingly diverse landscapes on this route regardless of where you stay! Chisos Mountain Lodge offers the only overnight option inside the park and easy access to a variety of activities, from horseback rides to stargazing. Considering the size and extremes of Big Bend, making Chisos Mountain Lodge your home base for at least one night will set you up for comfort, support, and the time to truly explore and connect with the landscape.

Whether you wake in Terlingua or inside Big Bend National Park, make your way to the Chisos Mountain trailhead for a long hike to Emory Peak (7,835 feet and 2,388 meters above sea level), the highest peak in the park. A long day-hike will get you to Emory, and if you’re feeling more ambitious (and prepared), you can combine it with a hike along the South Rim for more breathtaking views of the Chisos Mountains.

Wind down at the lodge, conveniently located near the trailhead, for a well-earned dinner and a cozy night’s sleep.

Hiker in Big Bend National Park with mountains in the backgroundEmily Taylor photo

Soak & Cruise

The warm waters of Langford Hot Springs will beckon as your Big Bend adventures begin to wrap up. Soak up the soothing waters, indescribable views of the Mexican desert and Rio Grand waters, and timeless connection to the Madessawi people through their nearby pictographs and ruins. Relish the memories of the stunning Big Bend region and plan your next trip as you make one last stop in Marathon, Texas, to round out your Big Bend itinerary.

Gage Hotel in Marathon Texas

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